Soso

Stroll down Akabane Ichibangai and climb the stairs to the 2nd floor, where Soso centers its menu on handmade oden gently simmered in a remarkably clear dashi broth. Staples like daikon radish, hard-boiled eggs, chikuwabu, and fish cakes soak up the umami-rich broth right to their core, releasing comforting aromas and deep warmth with every mouthful.

For a first visit, the value-minded Soso Set makes an easy start, pairing a draft beer with a seasonal small dish and a generous sampler of oden. Beyond the simmering pot, the kitchen turns out an enticing range of drinking fare, including roast beef tossed with crisp sliced onions and a house sauce, shuto cheese, and fresh sashimi.

The drinks list highlights craft beers and regional sakes from across Japan, including a tasting flight that lets guests sample and compare 3 chosen varieties. Individual pours are served generously, brimming right over the cup and into the saucer beneath—a welcome touch for sake enthusiasts.

Counter seating stands alongside tables, making it just as easy to drop in solo as it is to settle in with company. Seats can fill quickly right from the 16:00 opening, so reserving ahead is a sensible move when planning an evening out with a group.